As part of research for The White Bluff project our resident poet and writer Chris Armstrong stumbled across this article detailing the first settlement of White Bluff.
“Written in 1924, the language is fun, the stories fantastical.” Armstrong said. “There is a sadness too, that so many generations of settlers failed to acknowledge or even mention the Gumbaynggir people. Also how Rieck describes falling in love with this tropical paradise, his desire to live in nature, the beauty of the undeveloped bush and its wild plants - then he sets about destroying the very thing he seemed to love.”
“But, it’s a great read,” Armstorng adds. “The history, the eye witness accounts of a lost environment are something for us all to think on. And the human stories - raggamuffins, murder and triumph - and certainly the article is a unique insight into the early history of White Bluff. “
We have reproduced the piece in full here, or you can view it at Trove - https://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper/article/188552772
Coffs Harbour and Dorrigo Advocate, Saturday May 10, 1924
EARLIEST COFFS. (By Mrs. Fanny E. Rieck)
That resolute, enterprising globe- trotter, Mr. Herman Rieck, can be termed the first pioneer settler in the Coffs Harbour district. He came to Australia in the early seventies with the intention of going on the land, but meanwhile was engaged at his trade as press- man, journalist and editor in Adelaide, Melbourne, Brisbane and Toowoomba, with sundry minor occupations such as book-pedlar, builder labourer and stock and station roustabout to gain colonial experience, always searching for a suit- able piece of land to engage in farming and make a home. He searched in vain the now celebrated wheat-belt of South Australia, the grazing districts of South-east Australia and Victoria, the timber country of Gippsland, the Clarence River and Darling Downs. These lands not appealing to his imagination, he made up his mind to go to South America.
In 1881, having sold his local newspaper, "The Australia," at Toowoomba, he bought a pack horse for half-a-crown, and, with a mate, left Toowoomba and walked over the ranges to Grafton, on the Clarence River. Here old Mr. Waterhouse tried to dissuade him from leaving the country and told him that there were some reports of " good land" to be found on the coast, south of Ulmarra.
"Good," he said, "I am travelling down the coast to Sydney and shall be only too glad to find anything suitable."
He and his mate travelled via Ulmarra, where the sly grog proved a stumbling block to his mate, who was hard to get along. Eventually, following the old coast road, they passed the beautiful Moonee Creek and came to that charming piece of real softwood scrub country where later Rieck's Fiji banana plantation stood.
The arcadian beauty and charm of this spot could be felt as w'ell as seen. Close to the sea coast, where, in Australia, shifting sands and salt or pipeclay flats prevail, here were to be seen splendid forest trees, giant pines, red cedars, hard and soft woods, interlaced with festoons of ivy and creepers and ropes of liana, wild vine, passion vine with luscious fruits, the tall, graceful tree ferns, cabbage tree palms, the giant flame trees with their brilliant scarlet blossoms, the beautiful staghorn, birdnest ferns and a thousand other natural beauties. There, too, the majestic blue ocean, the twinkling islands, the rocky cliffs and sparkling white sand, all warm and sheltered from the cold inland westerly winds by the heavily-timbered mountain ranges. Is it any wonder that the weary wanderer was thrilled to the heart's core ? Eureka ! His long sought ideal was found at last.
They pitched camp on the hill overlooking Korora Estate. Next morning Mr. Rieck was up with the birds, the choral songsters, and, following some tracks of the timber-getters, explored that piece of land just north of Pine Brush Creek.
One of old Mr. John Booth's schooners, from Sydney, was lying out in the bay waiting for the surf- ing of a cargo of red cedar and pine. In the distance could be seen the little volcanic islands sheltering the present port or harbour. He saw at once the possibilities for a great future to build up, and quickly came to the conclusion to take up land there, where every prospect pleased. It was the land or his dreams. All his fancy painted was coming true.
He returned to the camp, where his mate was grumbling that tea was not ready.
" Mate," he said, "I have made up my mind to take up land and settle down here. You can take your swag and the horses and push on to South America."
In spite of entreaties; that he had promised to accompany him; that be was indebted to him for loans, etc , Mr. Rieck cut him short, saying,
" Depart in Peace, your sins are forgiven you."
After a good look round, Mr. Rieck proceeded to Kempsey and presented himself at the land Agent's office.
"Well, my man," said old Mr. McKay, " what can can I do for you?"
"I want to lake up land at a place they call Coffs Harbour, said Mr. Rieck.
"Where, and how much ?" asked Mr. Mckay.
Mr. Reck replied that he would like 80 acres south of Coffs Creek, starting at high water mark (the present port).
" No, my man, you can't have that," said Mr. McKay, "the Queen wants that for herself."
Mr. Rieck then selected first 80 acres north of Pine Brush Creek, the now northern portion of Mr. Norman Hill's dairy farm. Business done, Mr. Rieck went into the printing office—" The Macleay Chronicle"—and began talking about the beautiful land at Coffs Harbor, all his hearers listening with great interest.
"Can you write like you talk?" asked the editor.
"Oh, yes," replied our friend.
"Here is paper, pen and ink," said the editor, " please write down here all you have been telling us."
Mr. Rieck commenced writing, and filled page after page with such interesting matter that all were astonished.
"If you are really going to settle in that country, I would like you to write me an article every week," said the editor, "but for a man with a head like yours to bury himself in the bush is a pity. I will give you a job in this office"
"No," declined our friend, "I have seen and had enough of artificial life in the old world. I must go back to nature."
Mr. Rieck started on the return journey. Evening found him camped in the thickest scrub, with dingoes howling round him, when a man on horseback rode up.
"Man alive," said the newcomer, " you must not camp here. Don't you know that the wild doge will tear you to pieces ?''
"I am not afraid of them," replied our friend. " I have my revolver and have encountered worse dangers in the steppes of Russia—hungry wolves "
“I have a selection not far away " said the newcomer, "you come 'shake-down' with me."
Mr. Rieck was finally persuaded to go with the man on hearing that it was not far away. He threw his swag over his shoulder and walked mile after mile on the roughest of bushroads. Then they came to a creek to wade through.
" Catch bold of the horse's tail," said the man, "and he'll pull you through."
Through pitch darkness, he could only go stumbling on, lamenting his warm camp fire, until he came to the man's hut—or rather, piggery. The next morning Mr. Rieck's host implored him to stay and work for him. On refusal, he roundly abused him, saying "I wish I had left you to the dingoes Clear out!". It dawned on our friend why the man was anxious to take him to his selection.
Mr. Rieck got back to his beautiful new land just as the sun was dipping behind the western hills. Sitting on a log to rest, and view his new possession, he was welcomed by cat-bird, which said, like a little child, "There you are ! Here you are!"
"Yes he said, I am here at home and rest." He set to work with fire and steel to carve himself a home out of the wilderness. He had brought an axe along, but had neither nails or hammer to build a house. How to house himself was the next question. He found an old banyan fig tree, with giant spurs, and a j hollow where the former tree which it had strangled formed a natural chimney. By placing rafters and a roof of bark between the spurs he made an ideal but shelter—like Diogenes in his tub—in which he first lived, clearing and planting his ground until he could get matenal by the next steamer from Sydney to build a house.
Meanwhile, a number of land- seekers, dubbed "The Pilgrim' Fathers," came from Ulmarra and Grafton, amongst them being Messrs. Shepherd, Wingfield, Fuller, Peterson and Muller. James Small was then occupied in getting red cedar and pine logs from the forests for the Sydney markets, and also selected land south of Pine Brush Creek. Mr. Rieck, having to visit Graf ton, went into the "Examiner" office and was describing the country to the then proprietor, Mr. McFarlane, when Mr. G. H. Varley walked into the room, saying, "My good man, I hear you talking just as is here printed in the 'Macleay Chronicle. You surely must have read it," showing him the article in question.
" I am the father of that article," said Mr. Rieck proudly. "Oh, then, we must ask you to write for us in our paper— but you can get a job in our office."
" No," replied Mr. Rieck, " I have a selection but will send articles with pleasure."
So on rainy davs and Sundays articles were sent to the Press—not only to the Macleay and Grafton, but also to Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, and even to Germany and America. Coffs Harbour was quite unknown in Sydney at that time, for Mr. Rieck got a letter from the Lands Office addressed " Mr. Rieck, Coffs Harbour, Clarence River' ; then, " try Bellinger River."
These early settlers had to walk or ride to the Bellinger River, sometimes up to their breasts in water when crossing the Boambee and Bungle Creek, to bring rations from Boat Harbour (now Belligen). A postmaster there made enquiries and was informed that there were new settlers to the north, the letter in question probably being for them. So our friend got his letter, which he kept for curiosity for many years. After a few people settled, a Progress Association was formed, with Mr. Rieck as Secretary, to appeal for roads, bridges and a jetty, and many were the heated discussions held there. Mr. Muller would hare a surl boat. Mr. Peterson, the tailor and selector, would make drawings on the table with a piece of chalk on how he would have the town laid out—roads, | jetty, &c. The clearing and plant ing of sugar-cane went rapidly forward. Mr. Geo. Pitt, surveyor, of Sydney, was sent to survey and make the present coast road, and movements were made to survey the harbour for a deep sea port and construct the jetty. A public house was erected by Mr. Muiler, and a store by Mr. Lee, of Grafton; also a school in which religious service was held.
Then came the first tragedy. A Russian-Finn named Frieky and bis mate, Mat, took up land near Coffs Creek. They lived like father and son till there was a prospect of making money by growing sugar cane for the sugar-mill, which was being erected by Mr. J Small at Korora. Frieky wanted them to gel rid of Mat and get his wife over, and keep the farm on which Mat had worked most industriously, thinking that Frieky was not married, they started quarreing and one night, while Mat was poking up the fire, Frieky crept up behind him with an axe and killed him, afterwards burning his body in a big stump hole, but first cutiing off his foot and leg and putting it in a bag, intending to throw it in the sea. He first threw it into some bracken fern till an opportun ity should come, when it was found by some school-children going home from school. Young Charlie Shep herd threw the bag and contents over his shoulder and carried it home. it came to court and after a trial old Frisky was hung.
The district extended. Splendid scrub land was discovered at the Orara, where Mr, Hoschke was first pioneer, Nana Glen, Bucca Creek, and maize and sugar-cane were the staple products. as these articles became a drug in the market, dairying and fruit-growing, with timber as the mainstay, succeeded, when later Mr Rieck demonstrated that bananas could be profitably grown along this coast as far as Coffs Harbour in 1890. The sugar industry failing, a spasm of progress followed by gold mining at Bucca Creek, Nana Glen, the beach sand and other pockets The Dorrigo has been opened, the North Coast line completer, coupling Brisbane with Sydney along the sea board. the breakwater estending to the volcanic islands, enclosing and making a safe harbor, is almost completed.
The population increases slowly but steadily. The progress has not been too rapid, but a healthy one. the pro posed new railway line connecting the main trunk line in the west would open up vast tracts of valu able timber and scrub land for selection by the many land-hungry people. Mr. Reick selected in 1881 and commenced growing maize, fruit, tobacco and pumpkins. he also made efforts to grow cocoanuts, date palms and olives, but without success. He planted sugar-cane quite alone in the wilderness for six years, building his house on that mountain spur jutting into Rieck Bay, overlooking the majestic Pacific, the South Solitary Lighthouse and the foam-dashed rocks, cliffs and islands surround ing the harbour.
He was the instigator and enthusiastic projector of all works of benefit to the district, and, by writing to the Press, induced so many people to settle in the district that he was called 'the father of the district."
After six years alone in the wilderness, he sold part of his land and visited the Old World and the Islands of New Guinea, but the tropical heat drove him back to his own loved spot, the Riviera of Coffs Harbour, where he married, to finally settle down. But the wandering fever induced Mr. and Mrs. Rieck to make a cycling tour through all the civilized countries of England and Europe. After 10 year's travel, they returned to Coffs in 1908.
In 1913, through failing health, Mr Rieck was advised to try a colder climate. They left Australia the same year and were in the mountains of Tyrol when the war broke out. As English subjects, they were detained as prisoners of war in Munich. Mr. Rieck died there in 1921. His widow returned to Coffs Harbour in 1922.